Bakuchiol Side Effects: Irritation, Breakouts and How to Patch Test

Short answer: bakuchiol is generally well tolerated. In the main study comparing it with retinol, people using bakuchiol reported less stinging and scaling. Side effects are uncommon, but redness, itching or a rash can happen, especially if you're sensitive to another ingredient in the formula, such as fragrance. A simple patch test catches most problems before they start.

Why bakuchiol is considered gentle

Retinol is famous for an adjustment period: dryness, flaking and stinging that can last weeks. In the 2019 British Journal of Dermatology study (Dhaliwal et al.), the retinol group reported more of these effects than the bakuchiol group, while both saw similar improvements at 12 weeks. That's why bakuchiol is often recommended for people whose skin has struggled with retinol.

Possible side effects

• Redness or stinging: uncommon, but possible on very reactive or broken skin.
• Itching or a rash: this can be a sign of an allergic reaction. Allergic reactions to bakuchiol itself have been reported but are rare. More often the cause is another ingredient, such as fragrance or essential oils.
• Breakouts: a new product can occasionally clog pores, particularly if your routine is already heavy.

If you notice swelling, a spreading rash or blistering, wash the product off, stop using it and speak to a pharmacist or doctor.

Does bakuchiol cause purging?

“Purging” describes a temporary flare of breakouts when an ingredient speeds up how quickly skin renews itself, which is well known with retinoids and exfoliating acids. Bakuchiol is much milder, so purging is not commonly reported.

A useful rule of thumb: purging usually shows up where you normally get breakouts and settles within a few weeks. Spots in new areas, or ones that keep getting worse, are more likely a sign the product doesn't suit you, and it's worth stopping.

How to patch test a new skincare product

1. Apply a small amount to a discreet area, such as behind the ear, the side of the neck or the inner forearm.
2. Repeat once or twice a day for several days, in the same spot.
3. Watch for redness, itching, bumps or swelling.
4. No reaction? Start on your face a few times a week, then build up to daily use.

A patch test isn't a guarantee, but it's the easiest way to avoid a full-face reaction.

Tips to keep skin comfortable

• Introduce one new product at a time.
• Apply to clean, dry skin rather than straight after harsh exfoliation.
• Be careful combining several strong actives at once, especially retinoids and exfoliating acids, until you know how your skin responds.
• Wear sunscreen every day.

What's in our oil

Our Zenuva Bakuchiol Oil Serum lists every ingredient on the product page. It contains bakuchiol with rosehip, jojoba and evening primrose oils, and a natural fragrance from essential oils. If you know your skin reacts to fragrance or essential oils, patch-test first or check the full ingredient list with your doctor.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Read Is Bakuchiol Safe During Pregnancy? before starting.

Source: Dhaliwal S. et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 2019; 180(2): 289–296. This article is general information, not medical advice.