Bakuchiol vs Retinol: What the 12-Week Study Found and Who Each Suits

Short answer: in the best-known head-to-head study, bakuchiol and retinol improved the look of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation by similar amounts over 12 weeks, but the retinol group reported more stinging and scaling. Retinol has decades of research behind it; bakuchiol has much less, but it is the gentler option for skin that can't tolerate retinol.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Once it's absorbed, skin converts it into retinoic acid, which speeds up cell turnover and supports collagen. It is one of the most studied ingredients for fine lines and uneven tone.

The catch is the adjustment period. Many people get dryness, flaking, redness or stinging in the first weeks, and retinol is usually used at night with daily sunscreen. A lot of people stop before it has a chance to work.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a plant compound taken from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It isn't a retinoid and isn't related to vitamin A chemically, but lab research has found it acts on some of the same skin pathways. That's why it's often called a natural retinol alternative.

What the 12-week study found

The most-cited comparison was published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019 (Dhaliwal et al.). In a randomised, double-blind trial with 44 participants:

• One group applied a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day.
• The other applied a 0.5% retinol cream once a day.
• Faces were photographed and analysed at 0, 4, 8 and 12 weeks.

Both groups saw a significant drop in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the two. The retinol group reported more scaling and stinging. The researchers concluded bakuchiol is a promising, better-tolerated alternative, while noting larger studies are needed.

Two things to keep in mind: it was a small study, and results were judged at 12 weeks, not in a few days. Any routine needs consistent use over months.

Bakuchiol vs retinol at a glance

	Retinol	Bakuchiol
Source	Vitamin A derivative	Plant compound from babchi seeds
Evidence	Decades of research	Smaller, newer body of research
Common side effects	Dryness, flaking, stinging while skin adjusts	Generally well tolerated
When to use	Usually at night, with daily SPF	Morning or night, with daily SPF
Vegan	Usually synthetic, varies	Plant-derived

Who should choose which?

Retinol may suit you if your skin tolerates actives well, you want the most researched option, and you're happy to build up slowly.

Bakuchiol may suit you if retinol has left your skin stinging or flaking before, your skin is sensitive or reactive, you prefer plant-based skincare, or you want something you can also use on your neck, chest and arms.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Doctors usually advise avoiding retinoids at this time. Ask your doctor or midwife before starting any new active ingredient, bakuchiol included.

Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Many people do, and some formulas combine them. If you want to try both, introduce one at a time, start a few nights a week, and stop if your skin becomes irritated. Whichever you use, wear sunscreen every day: sun damage undoes the work.

How to use a bakuchiol oil

1. Cleanse and pat skin almost dry.
2. Warm 3 to 5 drops between your fingertips and press into the face and neck.
3. Follow with moisturiser if your skin is dry, and SPF in the morning.
4. Patch-test first if your skin reacts to fragrance or new products.

Our Zenuva Bakuchiol Oil Serum pairs bakuchiol with rosehip, jojoba and evening primrose oils, and works on the face, neck and body. You can see the full ingredient list on the product page.

Source: Dhaliwal S. et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 2019; 180(2): 289–296. This article is general information, not medical advice.